What counts as natural stone paving?
Natural stone paving is any outdoor floor made from quarried stone rather than manufactured concrete or fired clay. It falls into three broad groups: setts, which are small blocks; slabs or flags, which are flat and wider than they are thick; and irregular stone, laid as crazy paving with uneven outlines.
Setts, sometimes called cobblestones in everyday English, are the traditional street surface of old Andalusian towns. Granite setts are common because the stone is hard and dense, but other stones are also cut into setts. Slabs are used on terraces, paths and pool surrounds where a smoother, wider surface is wanted. Crazy paving, made from flat pieces with irregular edges fitted together like a puzzle, gives a rustic finish that sits well under pergolas and in gardens.
Each group has its own standard. Natural stone setts are covered by UNE-EN 1342, slabs of natural stone for external paving by UNE-EN 1341 and natural stone kerbs by UNE-EN 1343. When a supplier provides a declaration of performance under the relevant standard, you have a documented basis for comparing stones of different origin.
When is stone a better choice than concrete blocks?
Stone makes sense where appearance, age and context matter more than speed and uniformity: historic buildings, traditional village houses, formal courtyards and high-end villas. For a large drive on a tight budget, concrete pavers are usually the more rational choice.
A courtyard inside an old cortijo, a path leading to a whitewashed house in a hill village or the entrance to a villa built with stone walls all look more coherent with real stone underfoot. Stone also ages differently: it tends to gain character with wear rather than looking tired. On the other hand, every piece varies in size and tone, laying takes longer, and the base and bedding have to compensate for irregular thicknesses.
If you are still deciding, our guide comparing paving materials lays out the differences between concrete, stone, clay and permeable options. For most everyday drives and paths, concrete block paving remains the practical benchmark, and the article on how to choose between concrete, stone and clay gives a quick decision framework.
How are granite setts laid?
Granite setts are laid tightly on a prepared bed over a compacted base, either in a flexible system with sand or grit joints, or in a bound system where bed and joints use mortar. The choice depends on traffic, slope and the look you want.
In a flexible system, setts behave much like concrete blocks: they rest on a screeded bed and are locked by jointing material and firm edges. This suits gardens and lightly used drives and allows sections to be lifted later. In a bound system, setts are bedded in mortar on a stiffer base and the joints are filled with mortar, which suits steep slopes, areas with turning vehicles and places where loose jointing would wash out. Bound systems need movement joints and careful detailing to avoid cracking.
- Fan or arc patterns, traditional in old streets and squares, need skilled setting by hand
- Straight rows suit modern architecture and are quicker to lay
- Mixed sizes can echo the look of historic paving
- Contrasting borders in another stone can frame a courtyard or mark a route
Because setts vary in height, each one is bedded individually and tapped down to the line. This is slower than laying uniform concrete pavers and is one of the reasons stone work costs more per square metre. Our guide to laying patterns includes the main options for both stone and concrete.
What about stone slabs and crazy paving on terraces?
Stone slabs and crazy paving are usually bedded on mortar over a rigid base, because their size and irregular thickness make a sand bed hard to keep even. The base must be stable, the falls planned in advance and the joints filled so water cannot sit under the stone.
Large flags such as limestone or imported sandstone give a calm, wide surface that works on terraces, around outdoor kitchens and along paths. Thin slabs are more fragile and need full support beneath them; hollow spots under a slab are a common cause of cracking. Crazy paving uses irregular pieces arranged so that joints are of similar width and no long straight lines run through the pattern, which takes patience to get right.
Areas around barbecues, pergolas and pools have their own demands, from heat to wet feet. The sister site for terraces and gardens covers barbecue and pergola areas in irregular stone and garden paths in detail. Where a pool surround is involved, slip resistance becomes important and should be checked against the requirements that apply to the property.
How do you build a base for natural stone?
The base for stone is designed around the stone's weight, size and bedding method. A flexible system uses a compacted granular sub-base and a screeded bed; a bound system usually adds a concrete slab under a mortar bed.
Natural ground is excavated to the required depth, levelled and compacted. A granular sub-base is laid and compacted in layers to the correct falls. For a bound system, a concrete slab is then cast, with joints where needed, and the stone is bedded on mortar. Edges are formed with kerbs, a border course or a concrete haunch so that the outermost pieces cannot drift. Our guide to layers and base shows the build-up in section, and our page on the concrete base for paving explains when a rigid layer is justified.
Can old stone paving be reused or restored?
Often, yes. Old setts and slabs are frequently in good condition even when the base beneath them has failed, so they can be lifted, cleaned, sorted and relaid on a new base. This keeps the character of the original paving and avoids buying new stone.
Reclaimed stone may need sorting by thickness and size before relaying, and some pieces will be broken and have to be replaced with a close match. Where only part of the area has sunk, a local repair may be enough; the sister site's page on lifting and relaying sunken paving explains that approach. When the whole area is being redesigned, our page on replacing old paving covers lifting and waste removal.
What drives the cost of stone paving?
Stone itself, its thickness and finish, the bedding system and the complexity of the pattern are the main cost drivers. Hand-set patterns and irregular pieces take noticeably longer than straight rows of sawn material. Reusing sound stone from the site can offset part of the material cost.
Access is also relevant, because stone is heavy and pallets often have to be moved by hand in old town centres or on steep plots. For reference figures, see paving prices per square metre and the overview of factors that move the price. Send us a photo and the approximate m² – free, no-obligation quote.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between setts and cobblestones?
In everyday English the words are often used interchangeably. Strictly, setts are cut stone blocks with roughly rectangular faces, while cobbles are rounded natural stones. Most so-called cobbled streets in Andalusian towns are actually paved with setts, frequently granite.
Which standard covers natural stone setts?
Natural stone setts for external paving are covered by UNE-EN 1342. Slabs of natural stone for external paving are covered by UNE-EN 1341, and natural stone kerbs by UNE-EN 1343. These standards define requirements and test methods for each type of product.
Is granite slippery when wet?
It depends on the surface finish. Polished granite can be slippery, while flamed, bush-hammered or split faces offer more grip. For pool surrounds and outdoor areas, the finish should be chosen with slip resistance in mind and checked against the requirements that apply to the property.
Should stone be laid on sand or mortar?
Setts can be laid flexibly on a sand or grit bed, or bound on mortar. Slabs and crazy paving are usually bedded on mortar over a rigid base. The decision depends on traffic, slope, stone thickness and whether you want sections to be easily liftable later.
Can I use imported flagstones from the UK?
Imported flags such as sandstone or limestone can be laid if they arrive in suitable condition and in sufficient quantity. We check their thickness and consistency before quoting, because uneven pieces affect the bedding method, the base and the time needed for laying.
How do you stop crazy paving from cracking?
Cracking is mostly caused by hollow spots under the stone, an unstable base or missing movement joints. Each piece needs full bedding on a firm, rigid layer, the base needs correct falls, and longer areas need joints that allow movement without damaging the stone.
Can stone setts be used on a driveway?
Yes, granite setts are a traditional and durable choice for drives, particularly where a period or rustic look is wanted. They need a deep base, firm edging and, on slopes or turning areas, often a bound bedding system with mortar joints.
Do natural stone pavers need sealing?
Sealing is optional and depends on the stone and how the area is used. Some owners seal stone near outdoor kitchens to reduce staining. Sealing changes the appearance and grip of some stones, so it should be tested on a sample before being applied to a whole area.
Can you match new stone to an existing old courtyard?
We can look for stone of similar type, colour and size, but an exact match with weathered paving is rarely possible. Mixing reclaimed pieces from the same area with new stone, or creating a deliberate border between old and new, often gives a more convincing result.
Is stone paving much slower to lay than concrete?
Yes, because each piece varies in size and thickness and is bedded individually. Hand-set patterns such as fans or arcs and irregular crazy paving are especially time-consuming. The time is reflected in the quote rather than in shortcuts on site.